Hornby Class 37 TTS Sound Mini-Series – Part 2: Adding a Stay Alive Capacitor to a Hornby TTS Decoder

Welcome to Part 2 of our in-depth mini-series looking at improvements and upgrades to Hornby TTS sound decoder-fitted locomotives. In Part 1, we looked at speaker upgrades, and in this second part we’re looking at making a stay alive capacitor unit and fitting it to the decoder.

Whilst focused on the Hornby TTS decoder, the principles and steps outlined in these videos are applicable for most other stay alive scenarios, including other types of decoder, coach lighting circuits, end of train (EOT) lamps and so on. It’s ideal viewing for anyone interested in this areas of railway modelling.

Making the Stay Alive/Keep Alive Capacitor Unit

As well as showing you how to make the stay alive unit itself and assemble all of the components, in this video there’s a brief explanation of the background to stay alive devices generally and the role that each of the components plays in the overall circuit.

+ Video Contents +

00:00 – Video introduction
01:08 – Intro to making a stay alive unit
02:18 – Overview of the components required
04:11 – Using resistors to manage in-rush
05:00 – The components in detail
06:26 – Circuit diagrams
08:40 – A quick word of capacitor sizes
10:58 – Putting it all together: soldering
15:40 – Adding hookup wires & heat shrink
17:22 – The finished article

Fitting the Stay Alive Unit to the TTS Decoder

In this final video, we look at adding the stay alive/keep alive unit that we made to Hornby’s TTS sound decoder. We look at where to solder the two wires and also how to adjust CVs on the decoder to ensure that the stay alive unit functions correctly.

While the specific steps relate to Hornby’s TTS decoder, if you wanted to add a stay alive unit to their entry level R8249 decoder, the steps would be fairly similar (although the negative leg would have to be soldered directly to the negative side of the rectifier). If you’re using a different brand of decoder, the principles will be very similar, but the solder points will be different.

+ Video Contents +

00:00 – Introduction
00:20 – A quick recap
01:20 – Examining the decoder
06:08 – Soldering it all together
14:52 – Testing the solder work
16:10 – Fitting it all into the chassis
18:05 – A word about CV settings
19:08 – Testing the stay alive unit
20:53 – Conclusions

Please note: the steps involved in fitting the unit do require a steady hand and competence with a soldering iron. Working with DCC decoders and tiny surface-mount components leaves little margin for error and it is very easy to permanently damage sensitive electronics if you are not extremely careful.

Circuit Diagrams

We’ve produced a couple of circuit diagrams to accompany this tutorial series. You can download copies for free using the links below:

Project Components

You can buy items used in these tutorials using the affiliate links below. Using these links helps to support this website and our associated YouTube channel and is very much appreciated.

Hornby TTS decoders (Amazon): https://amzn.to/2PbRM9x
Hornby TTS sound decoders (eBay): https://ebay.to/2S1P4Ca
Capacitors (15,000 uF 25v): https://ebay.to/2AljFnF
Resistors (100 ohm 1/4w): https://amzn.to/2yzLtDx
Decoder wire (red & black): https://ebay.to/2NR9fj1
Decoder wire (Multipack): https://ebay.to/2PGEYoK
Diodes (1N4001 50v 1A): https://ebay.to/2CXBifB
Diodes (1N4001 50v 1A): https://amzn.to/2ODFqYo
Heat Shrink (multipack): https://amzn.to/2PdO0N5
Heat Shrink (various sizes): https://ebay.to/2EvWI54
Kapton tape (10mm x 30m): https://amzn.to/2OBEpjB
Kapton tape (various sizes): https://ebay.to/2R2H2aU
Liquid Flux Topnik No Clean (Amazon): https://amzn.to/2Al6HpP
Liquid Flux Topnik No Clean (eBay): https://ebay.to/2CXy7EO
0.3mm Lead/Tin solder: https://amzn.to/2NT7pOy
0.3mm Lead/Tin solder: https://ebay.to/2S6Jpe0
Hakko Soldering Station: https://amzn.to/2CVLzca
Blue silicone electronics mat: https://amzn.to/2Pbv7ug
A2 green cutting mat: https://amzn.to/2P8aKy3
A1 green cutting matt: https://amzn.to/2P8aKy3

Disclaimer

This project does require a steady hand and competence with a soldering iron. Working with DCC decoders and tiny surface-mount components leaves little margin for error and it is very easy to permanently damage sensitive electronics if you are not very careful. If you choose to follow any of the steps or suggestions outlined in the video, you do so at your own risk and any damage or injury to yourself, your models, your equipment or others is your own responsibility.

Hornby Class 37 TTS Sound Mini-Series – Part 1: Mega Bass Speaker Upgrade

The is the first in a two-part series on upgrades and improvements that can be made to a Hornby Class 37 locomotive with TTS sound.

In the second video, we’ll look at adding stay-alive capabilities to help keep the running smooth and steady, but for now, we’re upgrading the stock speaker to something a little better…

The steps outlined in this video are applicable to all TTS sound decoders (and many others). The only differences being that in some locomotives – not least most steam locos – the space inside can be rather limited and you may not be able to fit such a large speaker into the body.

Remember that in all cases where a Hornby TTS decoder is used, you must also use a 8 Ohm speaker (or two 4 Ohm speakers in series, adding up to 8 Ohms). This is different to LokSound V4 decoders, which can use a 4 Ohm or 8 Ohm speaker.

Speaker impedance and decoder specifications for all common sound decoders are explained in more detail in our free guide, which you can download here:

Getting components for this project

You can buy some of the components and consumables used in this video, and give a wee bit of support to the channel, using the affiliate links below:

Megabass speakers: https://ebay.to/2N4VMnf

‘No Clean’ Solder Flux: https://amzn.to/2E9oOmK

Selection box of heatshrink: https://amzn.to/2zTbhv5

Black tack: https://amzn.to/2OCYhCg

 

Please note: If you choose to follow any of the steps or suggestions outlined in the video, you do so at your own risk and any damage or injury to yourself, your models, your equipment or others is your own responsibility.

Making a Test Board & Rolling Road for Analogue & DCC Model Locos

I’ve been doing an increasing number of DCC decoder installations and model locomotive repair jobs – both for myself and others – and setting up my tester and rolling road each and every time I needed them was becoming a bit tiresome (not to mention the rat’s nest of cables).

After pulling what’s left of my hair out for the final time, I decided to put together a small loco and decoder test board, incorporating my LokProgrammer and SPROG, as well as accommodating off-board control integration (DCC and DC/Analogue).

The board also features a rolling road, using DCC Concepts rolling road modules, and my own take on a means to permanently integrate them into a test set up and improve usability, using acrylic sheet, spacers and screws.

You can download a PDF version of the wiring diagram for the test board featured in the video via the link below:

This is only one way of approaching a decoder test board setup and there other examples out there. I do recommend that you consider something like this if you’re intending to do a lot of decoder installation and maintenance – it saves a lot of time and hassle!

CORRECTION: in the video, I mention the acrylic/perspex sheet as being 6mm when it is actually 4mm. A thickness of 6mm is likely to be too thick and may interfere with the wheel flanges.

Project Components

You can buy some components for this how-to project via the links below. Buying via Amazon affiliate links means I get a (very) small donation and helps to support the website and channel:

– DCC Concepts rolling road: https://amzn.to/2C1IB6t
– Red and black wire pack: https://amzn.to/2C1Infx
– Green 2-pin terminal plugs/sockets: https://amzn.to/2PiVfiW
– Peco straight track: https://amzn.to/2LGgPM7
– A4 clear acrylic sheet (4mm thick): https://amzn.to/2Cae1Yk
– M5x8mm black nylon spacer: https://amzn.to/2Pq7tX4
– A4 plywood 12mm: https://ebay.us/LGRLYW
– A4 plywood 3mm: https://amzn.to/2C03bE2
– ESU decoder tester: https://ebay.us/aBLzSi
– SPROG dcc module: http://www.sprog-dcc.co.uk
– Green power panel-mount socket/plug: https://ebay.us/nBLfXz
– DC power-style socket: https://ebay.us/nBLfXz
– 3 position, 2-pole switch: https://ebay.us/WyKD3b

3D Printer STL Files

If you’ve got a 3D printer, you can download STL file for the 3D-designed parts for free and print yourself a copy:

Switch box/enclosure: https://skfb.ly/6B6Cy
SPROG3 cradle: https://skfb.ly/6B6DY

Please note: If you choose to follow any of the steps or suggestions outlined in the video, you do so at your own risk and any damage or injury to yourself, your models, your equipment or others is your own responsibility. Your own test board wiring requirements will vary depending on the components that you use and also the specifics of your design. The diagram provided above is only a guide and you must work out your own wiring needs yourself to avoid costly damage to programmers, testers and decoders.

Layout Update: August 2018 – Baseboards, Track Plan & Cataloguing Rolling Stock

It’s been just over two months since I posted a layout update. Despite the incredibly hot weather and other distractions of the Summer, I’ve still managed to make some reasonable progress up in the loft.

In this layout update video, I take a look at the track plan for the Strathpeffer Junction layout, as well as where I’ve got to with the baseboards, my initial thoughts for DCC busses and some sorting and cataloguing of rolling stock and locomotives.

I’ve had to jettison the idea of a two level layout with large fiddle yard below due to space constraints, so now it’ll be mainly one scenic level, albeit with an upper level TMD at one end with a small fiddle yard below that.

The station layout is loosely informed by Dingwall station during its heyday (click the map below for a larger image). There’s also a great thread on RMweb that looks at Dingwall’s layout in years gone by. You can read it by clicking here.

The plans show what I’ll be working towards, but are by no means set in stone. I’d love to know what you think about my plans and ideas, so please feel free to leave any thoughts, comments, suggestions and questions in YouTube’s comments section.

EDIT: In the video I put up text on the screen mentioning two booster units for my two power districts. I should have written one booster. The one district will be run run from the DCC controller itself (in my case, a Z21 black), and the one from a booster.

Installing a flashing tail (EOT) lamp on your model railway coach or wagon

When the Model Railway YouTube Community Group coach tour visited Strathpeffer Junction, we took the opportunity to drop the coach into Fodderty TMD for a quick once-over and flashing tail lamp installation.

This in-depth, two-part how-to series takes you through the installation process, step-by-step. Part A looks at designing and building a small rectifier and stay-alive/keep-alive circuit, from component selection to soldering.

Part B looks at adding a switch, installing the red tail lamp itself and, because the flasher unit used requires a specific voltage, the design and build of a small rectifier circuit.

The circuitry used in this video series is just as applicable for coach lighting circuits or most other situations where you need to get power from the tracks into a coach or wagon to power a light.

You can download the schematic for the circuitry here:

 

#StrathpefferJunction #MRYCG #NetworkYouTube

You can buy items similar to/the same as some of the consumables featured in this how-to via these Amazon affiliate links:

Prototyping circuit board: https://amzn.to/2OzU2Ez
Bridge rectifiers: https://amzn.to/2NYMQRq
Electrolytic capacitors (1000uf 25V): https://amzn.to/2n4Jm45
Electrolytic capacitors (mixed box): https://amzn.to/2v727bB
+5V 150mA voltage regulator: https://amzn.to/2n2KWDy

Please note: If you choose to follow any of the steps or suggestions outlined in the video, you do so at your own risk and any damage or injury to yourself, your models, your equipment or others is your own responsibility.

How to use a 21-pin decoder in a locomotive with an 8-pin socket

Whilst we crunch through a mound of unedited video filmed during June 2018, we thought we’d put out a short tutorial outlining one approach for making a custom 21-pin to 8-pin harness to enable the use of a 21-pin decoder in an 8-pin locomotive chassis.

The adaptor is simple to make and works well, but by its very nature, an 8-pin plug will not enable all functions of a 21-pin decoder to be used. This is unlikely to be an issue in most cases, as 8-pin chassis locos tend to have few built-in functions.

If used with a sound decoder, separate wires will need to be soldered to the adaptor for the speaker connections; the schematic below shows the relevant solder pads. Alternatively, in some cases, speaker wires can be soldered directly to the chip.

Download a free PDF file of the wiring diagram here:


Items required for this simple project are:

– MTC 21-pin breakout board (e.g. Laisdcc or ESU)
– 8-pin plug (pre-wired, if possible)
– Reel of decoder wire (for non-wired plugs)
– Soldering iron, solder & liquid flux
– Kapton tape or insulation tape
– Various tools, including: small side cutters, wire stripper and an exacto knife.

Ringfield Motor Upgrade Using a 3D Printed Adaptor

In this video, we take a look at an alternative method for replacing the ringfield/pancake motor in older Lima and Hornby models with a brand new CD/DVD drive motor.

We’ve used glue and brass tube in earlier projects to support the new motor, and while it works well, it can be a fiddly process, it takes time and can be hard to reverse.

Using a computer-designed and 3D-printed adaptor, you can quickly and simply install and perfectly align a replacement DC motor.

If you ever needed to replace a component, or indeed wanted to reinstall the original ringfield motor, it’s entirely possible to do so. This is a non-invasive alternative!

This is a detailed, step-by-step video and you’ll probably want a cup of tea or coffee and a comfy chair. The methods used in this video are not necessarily the only way to do it, nor necessarily the best.

Some things to consider

The 10mm CD/DVD drive motor should work in most Lima models locomotives of the following OO gauge classes: 08, 09, 31, 37, 40, 47, 52, 59, 60, 66 and 92. Other models may be able to accommodate a 12mm motor, but you must check dimensions yourself first and the 3D printed part would have to be altered accordingly.

The replacement motor is a 12000rpm, 6V, 0.03A DC motor. The output from a DCC decoder or a DC controller can reach 12V DC (sometimes a little higher) at the top end. In order to avoid motor burn-out and prolong motor life:

1. Diodes should be used to reduce voltage (as shown in the video),
2. DCC decoders should have their CV5 value reduced (if available), and
3. Top speeds should be kept to a minimum and run at higher speeds for short periods only.

The PLA+ plastic filament used in the production of the adaptor has a glass transition temperature of 50°-60°C (the point at which it may begin to soften). Our trials showed the motor got up to about 47.6°C after an hour of constant running at medium-to-fast speeds.

Under normal ‘home’ use, it’s unlikely that the plastic will be adversely affected by motor temperature, however if the motor is used for very long periods or worked hard with a long rake etc., its temperature may begin to exceed the glass transition temperature of the plastic and it may begin to soften.

Please note: I’ve drawn upon ideas and suggestions from a range of sources, as well as implementing my own. If you choose to follow any of the steps outlined in this article or video, you do so at your own risk and any damage to yourself, your models or your equipment is your own responsibility.

Upgrading a Lima Class 47: Ringfield Motor Replacement

Earlier in the year, we started an in-depth mini-series on a variety of upgrades to an old Lima Class 47 loco. On 8 June 2018, we published the fourth and fifth videos in the series, which focus on replacing the ringfield/pancake motor with a brand new CD/DVD drive motor.

In Part A, we look at dismantling the old motor, removing the gears for cleaning, adapting the plain bearing to accommodate a smaller drive shaft and positioning the new motor ready for gluing.

Part B then focuses on fixing the motor into place, creating a small diode array to drop some volts so that the motor is less stressed by higher voltages and then wiring it all up to the DCC decoder.

These are detailed, step-by-step videos. If you want a brief overview, you’ll find other options on YouTube and elsewhere. The methods used in the videos are not necessarily the only way to do it, nor necessarily the best.

Diode voltage dropper

In the project, we use a simple diode circuit to drop down voltage to the motor by ~2V. This is to help reduce potential for the 6V motor to be burnt out by over-voltage when running at higher speeds.

We produced a quick reference diagram for the diode voltage dropper, which should hopefully make the soldering process straightforward. The circuit is not mandatory per se and decoders with CV5 may be able to keep voltage down via other means, but we still recommend it.

Diode voltage dropper circuit for Lima motor conversion

Note: our diode circuit features SMD (surface mount) components, but the configuration is the same for the through-hole variety; you can just twist the legs together and solder, rather than using copper-clad circuit board.

Some technical considerations

The 10mm CD/DVD drive motor should work in most Lima models locomotives of the following OO gauge classes: 08, 09, 31, 37, 40, 47, 52, 59, 60, 66 and 92. Other models may be able to accommodate a 12mm motor, but you must check dimensions yourself first.

The replacement motor is a 12000rpm, 6V, 0.03A DC motor. The output from a DCC decoder or a DC controller can reach 12V DC (sometimes a little higher) at the top end. In order to avoid motor burn-out and prolong motor life:

1. Diodes should be used to reduce voltage (as shown in the video),
2. DCC decoders should have their CV5 value reduced (if available), and
3. Top speeds should be kept to a minimum and run at higher speeds for short periods only.

Parts & consumables

To save you having to trawl the web for the parts and consumables used in the videos, we’ve compiled a few Amazon affiliate links for your convenience:

* 10mm 6V motor: https://amzn.to/2HtkpYa
* 8-tooth, 2mm ID/5mm OD gears: https://amzn.to/2HtWI1C
* 2.5mm OD brass tube here: https://tinyurl.com/2-5mm-brass-tube
* Surface mount (SMD) rectifier diodes: https://amzn.to/2JnqkDE
* Through-hole rectifier diodes: https://amzn.to/2sQweSH

Ringfield motor gear layout

We always recommend that you take a photo of things before dismantling anything. However, just in case you’ve taken your motor apart and forgotten which way round the gears go, here’s a photo we took during one of our conversion jobs…

Lima Ringfield motor gears

Please note: I’ve drawn upon ideas and suggestions from a range of channels and people, as well as implementing my own. If you choose to follow any of the steps outlined in the video, you do so at your own risk and any damage to yourself, your models or your equipment is your own responsibility.