Railway Modelling Videos

This is Part 2 of an in-depth two-part series looking at home-made stay alive devices. In this video, we look at adding a stay alive/keep alive unit to Hornby's TTS sound decoder.

If you wished to add a stay alive unit to Hornby's R8249 decoder, the steps would be similar (although the negative leg would have to be soldered directly to the negative side of the rectifier).

We made the stay alive unit in the previous video (Part 1 - Making a Stay Alive Capacitor Unit), and if you've not seen that video, you can watch it here: https://youtu.be/S2BmPiurl-0

Please note: the steps covered in this video do require a steady hand and competence with a soldering iron. Working with DCC decoders and tiny surface-mount components leaves little margin for error and it is very easy to permanently damage sensitive electronics if you are not extremely careful.


+ Video Contents +

00:00 - Introduction
00:20 - A quick recap
01:20 - Examining the decoder
06:08 - Soldering it all together
14:52 - Testing the solder work
16:10 - Fitting it all into the chassis
18:05 - A word about CV settings
19:08 - Testing the stay alive unit
20:53 - Conclusions


+ Components +

You can buy items used in this video tutorial using the affiliate links below. Using these links helps to support the channel and is very much appreciated.

Hornby TTS decoders (Amazon): https://amzn.to/2PbRM9x
Hornby TTS sound decoders (eBay): https://ebay.to/2S1P4Ca
Capacitors (15,000 uF 25v): https://ebay.to/2AljFnF
Resistors (100 ohm 1/4w): https://amzn.to/2yzLtDx
Decoder wire (red & black): https://ebay.to/2NR9fj1
Decoder wire (Multipack): https://ebay.to/2PGEYoK
Diodes (1N4001 50v 1A): https://ebay.to/2CXBifB
Diodes (1N4001 50v 1A):: https://amzn.to/2ODFqYo
Heat Shrink (multipack): https://amzn.to/2PdO0N5
Heat Shrink (various sizes): https://ebay.to/2EvWI54
Kapton tape (10mm x 30m): https://amzn.to/2OBEpjB
Kapton tape (various sizes): https://ebay.to/2R2H2aU
Liquid Flux Topnik No Clean (Amazon): https://amzn.to/2Al6HpP
Liquid Flux Topnik No Clean (eBay): https://ebay.to/2CXy7EO
0.3mm Lead/Tin solder: https://amzn.to/2NT7pOy
0.3mm Lead/Tin solder: https://ebay.to/2S6Jpe0
Hakko Soldering Station: https://amzn.to/2CVLzca
Blue silicone electronics mat: https://amzn.to/2Pbv7ug
A2 green cutting mat: https://amzn.to/2P8aKy3
A1 green cutting matt: https://amzn.to/2P8aKy3


#StrathpefferJunction #HornbyTTS #StayAlive #KeepAlive

Thank you very much for watching.

Please comment, like, share and subscribe!

Visit us at: https://www.strathpefferjunction.com


+ Disclaimer +

This project does require a steady hand and competence with a soldering iron. Working with DCC decoders and tiny surface-mount components leaves little margin for error and it is very easy to permanently damage sensitive electronics if you are not very careful. If you choose to follow any of the steps or suggestions outlined in the video, you do so at your own risk and any damage or injury to yourself, your models, your equipment or others is your own responsibility.

This is Part 1 of an in-depth two-part series looking at home-made stay alive devices.

In this video, we look at making a stay alive/keep alive capacitor unit for use alongside a Hornby TTS sound decoder.

The principles and steps outlined in this video are, however, applicable for most other stay alive scenarios, including coach lighting, end of train (EOT) lamps and so on. The stay alive unit made could therefore be used in multiple situations, not just with a Hornby decoder.

As well as showing you how to make the stay alive unit itself and assemble all of the components, there's a brief explanation of the background to stay alive devices generally and the role that each of the components plays in the overall circuit.


+ Video Contents +

00:00 - Video introduction
01:08 - Intro to making a stay alive unit
02:18 - Overview of the components required
04:11 - Using resistors to manage in-rush
05:00 - The components in detail
06:26 - Circuit diagrams
08:40 - A quick word of capacitor sizes
10:58 - Putting it all together: soldering
15:40 - Adding hookup wires & heat shrink
17:22 - The finished article


+ Components +

You can buy items used in this video tutorial using the affiliate links below. Using these links helps to support the channel and is very much appreciated.

Hornby TTS decoders (Amazon): https://amzn.to/2PbRM9x
Hornby TTS sound decoders (eBay): https://ebay.to/2S1P4Ca
Capacitors (15,000 uF 25v): https://ebay.to/2AljFnF
Resistors (100 ohm 1/4w): https://amzn.to/2yzLtDx
Decoder wire (red & black): https://ebay.to/2NR9fj1
Decoder wire (Multipack): https://ebay.to/2PGEYoK
Diodes (1N4001 50v 1A): https://ebay.to/2CXBifB
Diodes (1N4001 50v 1A):: https://amzn.to/2ODFqYo
Heat Shrink (multipack): https://amzn.to/2PdO0N5
Heat Shrink (various sizes): https://ebay.to/2EvWI54
Kapton tape (10mm x 30m): https://amzn.to/2OBEpjB
Kapton tape (various sizes): https://ebay.to/2R2H2aU
Liquid Flux Topnik No Clean (Amazon): https://amzn.to/2Al6HpP
Liquid Flux Topnik No Clean (eBay): https://ebay.to/2CXy7EO
0.3mm Lead/Tin solder: https://amzn.to/2NT7pOy
0.3mm Lead/Tin solder: https://ebay.to/2S6Jpe0
Hakko Soldering Station: https://amzn.to/2CVLzca
Blue silicone electronics mat: https://amzn.to/2Pbv7ug
A2 green cutting mat: https://amzn.to/2P8aKy3
A1 green cutting matt: https://amzn.to/2P8aKy3


#StrathpefferJunction #HornbyTTS #StayAlive #KeepAlive

Thank you very much for watching.

Please comment, like, share and subscribe!

Visit us at: https://www.strathpefferjunction.com


+ Disclaimer +

This project does require a steady hand and competence with a soldering iron. Working with DCC decoders and tiny surface-mount components leaves little margin for error and it is very easy to permanently damage sensitive electronics if you are not very careful. If you choose to follow any of the steps or suggestions outlined in the video, you do so at your own risk and any damage or injury to yourself, your models, your equipment or others is your own responsibility.

The is the first in a two-part series on upgrades and improvements that can be made to a Hornby Class 37 locomotive with TSS sound.

In the second video, we'll look at adding stay-alive capabilities to help keep the running smooth and steady, but for now, we're upgrading the stock speaker to something a little better...megabass!

The steps outlined in this video are applicable to all TTS sound decoders (and many others). The only differences being that in some locomotives - not least most steam locos - the space inside can be rather limited and you may not be able to fit such a large speaker into the body.

Remember that in all cases where a Hornby TTS decoder is used, you must also use a 8 Ohm speaker (or two 4 Ohm speakers in series, adding up to 8 Ohms). This is different to LokSound V4 decoders, which can use a 4 Ohm or 8 Ohm speaker.

Speaker impedance and decoder specifications for all common sound decoders are explained in more detail in our free guide, which you can download here: https://tinyurl.com/dcc-sound-speaker-guide

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You can buy some of the components and consumables used in this video, and give a wee bit of support to the channel, using the affiliate links below:

Megabass speakers: https://ebay.to/2N4VMnf

'No Clean' Solder Flux: https://amzn.to/2E9oOmK

Selection box of heatshrink: https://amzn.to/2zTbhv5

Black tack: https://amzn.to/2OCYhCg

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Thank you very much for watching.

Please comment, like, share and subscribe!

Visit us at: https://www.strathpefferjunction.com

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Please note: If you choose to follow any of the steps or suggestions outlined in the video, you do so at your own risk and any damage or injury to yourself, your models, your equipment or others is your own responsibility.

I was chatting to Paul at the Galgorm Hall model railway layout a few weeks back about railway modelling on YouTube, and model making and creativity online more generally.

One thing that we both loved about other maker channels, particularly amongst the woodworking community, is that folk share 'shop cards' with each other as a way to support other channels and give visual 'shout outs'.

So, we decided we'd knock up some 'layout cards' for our own respective model railway YouTube channels and share them with each other to get the ball rolling. 

And no sooner had we exchanged cards, when Simon from Liverton Central dropped us a line to get involved - and so it began!

If you'd like a Strathpeffer Junction layout card (I've currently got magnet and sticker variants), you can request one here: https://www.strathpefferjunction.com/layoutcardrequest

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You can visit Galgorm Hall and Liverton Central here:

https://www.youtube.com/galgormhall

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCoQlAB8h66gOulcw-HD7QIw

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Thank you very much for watching.

Please comment, like, share and subscribe!

Visit us at: https://www.strathpefferjunction.com

Hornby have just released a brand new Class 43/HST set with TTS sound. It’s a fantastic model and the sound decoder is pretty decent too for the money, but, as is the case with most sound decoders, the factory-fitted speaker is a little tinny and doesn’t have much bass response to it.

In this in-depth video, I show you all you need to know about upgrading/replacing stock TTS & DCC sound speakers with a far superior Mega Bass speaker, including rewiring, body preparation (for anyone who doesn’t have a sound-fitted model) and installation. The improvement to sound and bass response from these new speakers is fantastic.

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Jump to sections:

00:00 - Introduction
01:40 - Removing the body
03:15 - Speaker location options
04:38 - Choosing a new speaker
07:40 - Replacing the speakers
10:28 - Installing the speakers (dummy car)
15:03 - Installing the speakers (power car)
18:00 - Body replacement and testing

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The HST set featured is not a TTS-fitted model, however the steps involved in replacing the speaker are exactly the same for a TTS chip as they are a LokSound or Zimo decoder; the only difference being that a TTS and Zimo decoders must use an 8 ohm speaker, while the LokSound V4 can use anything between 4 and 16 ohms.

Speaker impedance and decoder specifications are explained in more detail in our free guide, which you can download here: https://tinyurl.com/dcc-sound-speaker-guide

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There are a variety of different retailers selling Mega Bass speakers (also called 'High Bass'). Here are some options:

https://ebay.to/2N4VMnf

https://www.coastaldcc.co.uk/products/speakers/8-ohm

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Thank you very much for watching.

Please comment, like, share and subscribe!

Visit us at: https://www.strathpefferjunction.com

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Please note: If you choose to follow any of the steps or suggestions outlined in the video, you do so at your own risk and any damage or injury to yourself, your models, your equipment or others is your own responsibility.

Update: Due to popular demand, a PDF wiring diagram for the test board is now available here: https://tinyurl.com/loco-tester-rollingroad-wiring

I've been doing an increasing number of DCC decoder installations and model locomotive repair jobs - both for myself and others - and setting up my tester and rolling road each and every time I needed them was becoming a bit tiresome (not to mention the rat's nest of cables).

So, I decided to put together a wee loco and decoder test board, with LokProgrammer, SPROG and off-board control integration (DCC and DC/Analogue). It also features a rolling road, using DCC Concepts rolling road modules and my own take on a means to permanently integrate them into a test set up.

This is only one way of approaching this and there other examples out there. I do recommend that you do something like this if you're intending to do a lot of decoder installation and maintenance - it saves a lot of time and hassle!

CORRECTION: In the video, I mention the acrylic/perspex sheet as being 6mm when it is actually 4mm. A thickness of 6mm is likely to be too thick and may interfere with the wheel flanges.

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You can buy some components for this how-to project via the links below. Buying via Amazon affiliate links means I get a (very) small donation and helps to support the channel:

- DCC Concepts rolling road: https://amzn.to/2C1IB6t
- Red and black wire pack: https://amzn.to/2C1Infx
- Green 2-pin terminal plugs/sockets: https://amzn.to/2PiVfiW
- Peco straight track: https://amzn.to/2LGgPM7
- A4 clear acrylic sheet (4mm thick): https://amzn.to/2Cae1Yk
- M5x8mm black nylon spacer: https://amzn.to/2Pq7tX4
- A4 plywood 12mm: https://ebay.us/LGRLYW
- A4 plywood 3mm: https://amzn.to/2C03bE2
- ESU decoder tester: https://ebay.us/aBLzSi
- SPROG dcc module: http://www.sprog-dcc.co.uk
- Green power panel-mount socket/plug: https://ebay.us/nBLfXz
- DC power-style socket: https://ebay.us/nBLfXz
- 3 position, 2-pole switch: https://ebay.us/WyKD3b

If you've got a 3D printer, you can download STL file for the 3D-designed parts for free and print yourself a copy:

Switch box/enclosure: https://skfb.ly/6B6Cy
SPROG3 cradle: https://skfb.ly/6B6DY

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Thank you very much for watching.

Please comment, like, share and subscribe!

Visit us at: https://www.strathpefferjunction.com

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Please note: If you choose to follow any of the steps or suggestions outlined in the video, you do so at your own risk and any damage or injury to yourself, your models, your equipment or others is your own responsibility.

It's been just over two months since I posted a layout update. Despite the incredibly hot weather and other distractions, I've still managed to make some reasonable progress up in the loft.

In this video, I take a look at the track plan for the Strathpeffer Junction layout, as well as where I've got to with the baseboards, my initial thoughts for DCC busses and some sorting and cataloguing of rolling stock and locomotives.

I've had to jettison the idea of a two level layout with large fiddle yard below due to space constraints, so now it'll be mainly one scenic level, albeit with an upper level TMD at one end with a small fiddle yard below that.

The plans show what I'll be working towards, but are by no means set in stone. I'd love to know what you think about my plans and ideas, so please feel free to leave any thoughts, comments, suggestions and questions in the comments section below. 

EDIT: In the video I put up text on the screen mentioning two booster units for my two power districts. I should have written one booster. The one district will be run run from the DCC controller itself (in my case, a Z21 black), and the one from a booster.

You can find the channel that I gave a shout out here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCVhtF1Jr-F28Rei_wbeLOqw

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Thank you very much for watching.

Please comment, like, share and subscribe!

Visit us at: https://www.strathpefferjunction.com

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Please note: If you choose to follow any of the steps or suggestions outlined in the video, you do so at your own risk and any damage or injury to yourself, your models, your equipment or others is your own responsibility.

This in-depth, two-part how-to series takes you through the installation process of a flashing tail lamp and pickup circuitry, step-by-step.

Part A looked at designing and building a small rectifier and stay-alive/keep-alive circuit, from component selection to soldering. You can watch it here: https://youtu.be/xFHKSgrDBL8

In this part, Part B, we look at adding a switch, installing the red tail lamp itself and, because the flasher unit used requires a specific voltage, the design and build of a small rectifier circuit.

The circuitry used in this video series is just as applicable for coach lighting circuits or most other situations where you need to get power from the tracks into a coach or wagon to power a light.

You can download the schematic for the circuitry here: https://tinyurl.com/coach-lighting-stay-alive

#StrathpefferJunction #MRYCG #NetworkYouTube

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00:00 - Installing a switch
03:30 - Adding pickups to the bogie
08:00 - Wiring up the switch, bogies & circuit board
12:45 - Installing the flashing lamp
18:00 - Designing & building a voltage regulator
23:22 - Fitting it all together & testing the lamp

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You can buy items similar to/the same as some of the consumables featured in this video via these Amazon affiliate links:

Prototyping circuit board: https://amzn.to/2OzU2Ez
Bridge rectifiers: https://amzn.to/2NYMQRq
Electrolytic capacitors (1000uf 25V): https://amzn.to/2n4Jm45
Electrolytic capacitors (mixed box): https://amzn.to/2v727bB
+5V 150mA voltage regulator: https://amzn.to/2n2KWDy

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Thank you very much for watching.

Please comment, like, share and subscribe!

Visit us at: https://www.strathpefferjunction.com

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Please note: If you choose to follow any of the steps or suggestions outlined in the video, you do so at your own risk and any damage or injury to yourself, your models, your equipment or others is your own responsibility.

When the Model Railway YouTube Community Group coach tour visited Strathpeffer Junction, we took the opportunity to drop the coach into Fodderty TMD for a quick once-over and flashing tail lamp installation.

This in-depth, two-part how-to series takes you through the installation process, step-by-step. Part A looks at designing and building a small rectifier and stay-alive/keep-alive circuit, from component selection to soldering.

Part B looks at adding a switch, installing the red tail lamp itself and, because the flasher unit used requires a specific voltage, the design and build of a small rectifier circuit. You can watch it here: https://youtu.be/nrtPx-Byc2Y

The circuitry used in this video series is just as applicable for coach lighting circuits or most other situations where you need to get power from the tracks into a coach or wagon to power a light.

You can download the schematic for the circuitry here: https://tinyurl.com/coach-lighting-stay-alive

#StrathpefferJunction #MRYCG #NetworkYouTube

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00:00 - Introduction
02:30 - Working out the design
03:50 - Looking at the components
10:25 - Arranging everything and soldering it all together

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You can buy items similar to/the same as some of the consumables featured in this video via these Amazon affiliate links:

Prototyping circuit board: https://amzn.to/2OzU2Ez
Bridge rectifiers: https://amzn.to/2NYMQRq
Electrolytic capacitors (1000uf 25V): https://amzn.to/2n4Jm45
Electrolytic capacitors (mixed box): https://amzn.to/2v727bB
+5V 150mA voltage regulator: https://amzn.to/2n2KWDy

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Thank you very much for watching.

Please comment, like, share and subscribe!

Visit us at: https://www.strathpefferjunction.com

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Please note: If you choose to follow any of the steps or suggestions outlined in the video, you do so at your own risk and any damage or injury to yourself, your models, your equipment or others is your own responsibility.

During the summer of 2018, Paul Chapman of the Model Railway YouTube Community Group (MRYCG) and Galgorm Hall model railway set in motion a fantastic tour of many of the UK's online model railway YouTube channels, based on Dave Jones' wonderful map.

He resprayed two coaches in a special livery - one in OO Gauge and one in N Gauge - and sent them on their merry way around the British Isles (and, so I'm told, also one or two further flung parts of the world).

I was delighted to be part of this epic tour and one of the very first stops, no less - which added a bit of pressure, as I have no idea what to do with it given I didn't have a layout set up.

No visit to Strathpeffer Junction would be complete without a wee bit of tinkering, so that's exactly what I did...and the coach left with a flashing tail lamp!

Before arriving in the Highlands, the coach started at Richard Watson's fantastic New Junction. You can watch his video here: https://youtu.be/cb-oycYGjzo

After a week in sunny Strathpeffer, the coach headed off down the Highland Mainline towards Kirkton Road Junction. You can catch Mark's video here: https://youtu.be/4W-MRBTZjZk

Wishing it all the very best of luck for the journey ahead...

You can find out more about the MRYCG summer coach tour here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/MRYCG

#NetworkYoutube #MRYCG #StrathpefferJunction

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Thank you very much for watching.

Please comment, like, share and subscribe!

Visit us at: https://www.strathpefferjunction.com

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Please note: If you choose to follow any of the steps or suggestions outlined in the video, you do so at your own risk and any damage or injury to yourself, your models, your equipment or others is your own responsibility.